I've blown the fuse inside my Mk ii Marshall Valvestate VS100 amp. I removed the fuse and put it in a safe place. Well, you can guess the rest. I've just spent an hour looking for it and the only rational explanation I can come up with is that pixies broke into my house and stole it! So, can any one tell me what value of fuse it would be?
I know it was stamped 240v and I think the part number stamped on it started T1. But maybe not.
Marshall Electronics PTZ Controller model VS-TKC-100. PTZ Controller, model VS-TKC-100 with USB mouse function, Controls up to 255 cameras, Multiple protocols supported in each channel, RS-485 / RS-422 communication, Programmable user preferences, Built-in 3-Axis proportional joystick and easy upload of programming data. USB Cable, Manual. Marshall really dropped the ball when they discontinued the VS100RH and replaced it with the new 'jack of all trades' AVT series. I thought the VS100 was a bad ass little bitch.
It's the one right next to where the 240v wires attach from the back of the kettle socket. The circuit board is marked 'AI'. I am aware that a blown fuse may well be a sign of something more serious, if the new fuse blows again it'll be going straight to the vet for a service. Regular Posts: 72 Joined: Thu Jan 31, 2008 1:00 am.
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I take that was 'T 1 A(?) 240V'. One amp sounds right enough.
Was the fuse really black? If so fear the worst. Tip: Fit the new fuse, amp unplugged OF COURSE, switch on the amp. Mains skt off, plug in stand back and flip mains switch.Point?
If you have a good solid short in there you could weld up the mains switch, more beer vouchers to tech'! And I am very jealous! You can go THREE coffees before a pee! Jedi Poster Posts: 9642 Joined: Mon May 29, 2006 12:00 am Location: northampton uk.
Ef37a wrote: Tip: Fit the new fuse, amp unplugged OF COURSE, switch on the amp. Mains skt off, plug in stand back and flip mains switch.Point? If you have a good solid short in there you could weld up the mains switch, more beer vouchers to tech'! Sound advice as always.
I would have fitted the fuse with out plugging in but switching on the power at the mains is a top tip. If some thing is going to blow up or short out, you really want to be as far away from the electronics as possible!! Six wrote:You can't go wrong with tube amps. That's tempting fate Andy Certainly is and you certainly can go wrong with valve amps! Modern valves are a lottery. If you get a set of op bottles that work out of the box there is a fair chance one will fail in a few hours/days.
The best one can do is fit them and run them at near 100% output for at least an hour and preferably 1/2 a day. Input valves are no better. From a box of 50 I used to get no more than 10 that were quiet enough for the highest gain amp.
Some were even so poor for heater cathode leakage that they hummed far to badly in the phase splitter position. Then there seems to be a number of rather cheap and poorly designed valve amps on the market these days? Better I think to buy a GOOD solid state amp than a cheap valve job. Jedi Poster Posts: 9642 Joined: Mon May 29, 2006 12:00 am Location: northampton uk. Six wrote:You can't go wrong with tube amps. I refer you to the answers recently given by my learned colleagues!! Someone once 'helpfully' took my Marshall JVM410 out to my car for me straight after a jam.
It was -3 Centigrade. And yes, of course, I have my eye on a nice wee 5 watter - yes Dave, one of those! I was actually a wee bit disappointed that the ValveState came back to life.
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I really should have gone out and bought a replacement before changing the fuse. A golden opportunity missed! Maybe the vet will condemn the VS when I take it for a checkup. Regular Posts: 72 Joined: Thu Jan 31, 2008 1:00 am. 'Someone once 'helpfully' took my Marshall JVM410 out to my car for me straight after a jam.
It was -3 Centigrade.' That thermal shock really should not bother a decent valve. Remember,(oh!You won't!) early car radios used valves and the PA/PSU section was split off and was normally fitted into the ENGINE compartment! In fact most of the faults on those radios were due to the converter vibrator (stop sniggering! V clever, obsolete technology!)or the selenium rectifiers whch were latterly replaced with 4xBY100s. Jedi Poster Posts: 9642 Joined: Mon May 29, 2006 12:00 am Location: northampton uk. And the whole shooting match was horribly inefficent (but better than Selenium rects!) and would flatten your battery PDQ.
At that time lead acid technology was not as good as todays and dynamos were used to provide the charge which they failed to do if the engine revs dropped below about 1100rpm, thus most cars had a centre zero ammeter. Interstingly although transistor PA and small signal audio stages soon appeared in ICE the RF sections remained valved for many years, special valves designed to run with 12V 'HT' were used. The Mullard '83 series. Jedi Poster Posts: 9642 Joined: Mon May 29, 2006 12:00 am Location: northampton uk.
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